The vertical walls of the Dolomites have always fascinated me, since the first time that, while passing under the imposing North-East wall of “Crozzon di Brenta” I told myself: “I want to climb this mountain and I want to go up this way”. Since then, verticality has never left me. This is perhaps because of the great satisfaction that I get every time I reach a peak. Or maybe because climbing a wall makes me feel inside the mountain. It makes me feel part of it.
I don’t know exactly why, I only know that I am able to feel that way only when I am among those walls. Even now, while I’m writing, my head is up there, around the Dolomites.
But now let’s speak about numbers, shall we? Within 10 years of climbing I got to climb 7c red point and 7a+ on-sight routes in sport climbing, and 5 + / 6 on ice falls, climbing about 500 multipitch routes on the Alps and in the World (Andes, Rocky Mountains, Northern Europe).
During our climbs, I will instill to you the knowledge I have acquired over years of mountain experience, multipitch techniques and safety knowledge. I will also teach you how to choose the right track, how to do rope maneuvers and all the knowledge needed to better manage our day in the mountains.
Mountain Guide registered with the Provincial Register of Mountain Guides of Trentino.
Difficulty and itineraries among dolomites, valle del sarca and val d’adige
According to many people, they are just rocks, without any purpose, perhaps even worthless. According to us, the climbers, they know how to hide dreams, challenges and passions. They know how to enclose the most beautiful things we can do outdoors, in the midst of nature. Elegance, strength, precision, courage and why not, even fear. All this makes climbing not just a sport but an art. An art that I will be happy to let you discover.
Example of excursions suitable for beginners
Colodri – Via “Aspettando Martino” (that is literally “Waiting for Martin”)
Near the town of Arco stands this famous rock wall, the Colodri. For climbers this is a symbol, the best ones have ventured on it.
The Aspettando Martino route is an excellent approach to climbing on multi-pitch routes, moderate difficulty and excellent bolting protection will guarantee a day of pure fun on this sunny wall. Descent along the Colodri’s via ferrata in order to quickly reach the parking lot. In Arco you can climb all year round, even in the warm winter sun.
Corna Rossa – via Nella Detassis
Superb route in truly typical Dolomite environment. It was opened by a great Trentino climber: Bruno Detassis. After an approach that will last a little less than one hour from the Ref. Vallesinella, we will reach the base of the wall. Excellent rock and contained difficulties will make us enjoy a great day on the wall, in direct contact with the mountain.
Once on top, we’ll have a break with a view of the entire Brenta Centrale. This is absolutely a must. In front of a well-deserved beer at the Graffer refuge we will remember the emotions we have just experienced and we will begin to dream of the next adventures in the UNESCO heritage.
Example of medium difficulty climbing
Campanile Basso – Spigolo Fox (Fox Edge)
A very exposed edge that rises elegantly to the summit of the most beautiful campanile in the world. “El Bas”, as we call it in the Trentino dialect (literally, “the low one”), represents a fixed point, almost an obligation for those who love climbing on dolomite. After spending the night at Ref. Brentei, early in the morning we will set off for the Bocchette Centrali. We will travel the first part of it to reach the beginning of the Via Normale.
Once prepared the ropes, our day on the wall will start. After 2 pitches on the normal route, we will go up to the left along our edge. Vertical and never trivial pitches will take us to the top, where the famous bell will be, waiting for us. Abseil descent and then down again to Brentei, where a unique and familiar atmosphere will make us enjoy even more the climb we just made.
Parete di San Paolo – Via “Penelope”
A fulfilling ascent for those who already climb the crag and want to start enjoying the pleasure of a multi-pitch route in a non-isolated environment.
Beautiful slabs and dihedrals of excellent rock will make us fully enjoy the climb. Short approach and short descent will allow us to experience the day with absolute relaxation.
Example of ascent for experienced climbers
Rupe Secca – Via “Mescalito”
A beautiful and famous route, a hugely satisfying climb on a mythical route of the Valley.
Those who frequent the sunny walls of the Valley cannot fail to know this climb, which represented a true revolution in the style of opening for those years (1982).
Slabs, dihedrals, overhangs, a summary of all the climbing styles within 300 meters of beautiful limestone. Together, we will travel this route enjoying the pure pleasure of climbing.
Difficulty and itineraries among val brenta, val daone, valorz, val di tovel, val di non and val di sole
The charm of the ephemeral. In this statement we can summarize ice climbing. Beautiful, imposing structures. Real shows of nature. All this makes of this sport something absolutely unique and special, to be seized at the right time, knowing how to wait for the best conditions. Tied as a team, we will go to the discovery of the most beautiful icy flows of the Trentino and beyond.
Example of ice climbing suitable for beginners
San Biagio – “Cascata 3 Salti” (literally, “Three jumps’icefall”)
A icefall located in the Novella River Park. It’s a narrow canyon carved by the homonymous stream, tributary of the Lake of Santa Giustina in the Val di Non. Perfect itinerary to take the first steps on vertical ice. After a brief descent approach to reach the base of the gorge, we will begin to climb this ephemeral line composed of three vertical pitches interrupted by comfortable ledges.
Once we reach the top, the conventional handshake to congratulate, and we will soon be at the car. The San Biagio gorge offers itineraries of all levels of difficulty.
Example of medium difficulty climbing
Valorz – “Grand Hotel”
In the heart of the Stelvio Park, the Valorz amphitheater is a real Mecca for the passionate ice-climber. The Grand Hotel icefall has become a symbol for the north-east ice-climbers and it is an excellent approach to the Valley for those who already have experience on ice.
The icefall creeps between narrow walls, culminating in the impressive final wall: 45 meters with 90-degree sections. With some abseil we will be at the base again. Every winter Valorz guarantees cold and good ice, what else could you ask for?
Example of ice climbing for experienced climbers
Val di Tovel – “Cascata di Tovel” (Tovel’s icefall)
Located near the lake of the same name, this icefall represents a real gem that every ice-climber should seize. A magical and uncontaminated environment (we are in the Adamello-Brenta Park) will be the setting for our day on this elegant and challenging icefall line.
Hard 90-degree sections will really put our forearms to the test but the challenge will certainly be worth it. Once at the top we will be rewarded with enormous satisfaction. In Val di Tovel there is the possibility of climbing on icefalls of different difficulty depending on the level and the objective you have.